Ask the Audio Doctor: September–October 1999

Dear Doctor,

I am planning to improve my hi-fi system. My current line-up is: B&W CDM-1 speakers, Marantz PM-80 integrated amplifier, Thorens TD2001 turntable with Grado Platinum MM system, Marantz CD-67 SE CD-Player. I am very much into listening to vinyl at the moment and have the impression that the integrated phono preamplifier is not up to the standard of the other components. More generally, the amplifier seems to be improvable but I cannot spend more than $1500 on a new amplifier. Thus I only want to replace it if I really get something better (considering the other components). First, I want to extent my system by getting an Entec "Black Cube" as an additional phono preamplifier. Second, I have seen at a local dealer an offer of a Vincent SA-11 and SA-61 pre- and endamplifier. Could you recommend these components as being much superior to the Marantz? Thanks for your consideration. Yours,

– Bernd

Bern, I don’t know enough about your speakers, but that may be your biggest bang for the buck in terms of an improvement. If the speakers aren’t going and you can by-pass the Marantz’s pre-amp section, do that. A McIntosh C15 pre-amp ($1,500), which includes a phono stage, would be a terrific improvement. The Musical Design tubed pre-amp, $1,200 without phono, is another outstanding choice. A little more than $1,500 will get you a Bryston .4B pre-amp and 2B LP 60 watt amplifier (see review in this issue), or Bryston’s B60 integrated amplifier in it’s non remote controlled version. Both the .4B pre-amp and the non remote version of the B60 integrated have recently been discontinued, so you should be able to get them at something of a discount, putting you at or less than $1,500. Like the Musical Design pre-amps, the Brystons would require an outboard phono pre-amp. NAD makes one, the PP1, for $125, and Creek has one for around $225. I would guess, though I’m not positive, that the performance of these phone pre-amps would be superior to that in the Marantz.

I’m not familiar with the Vincent equipment. Good luck to you .- dh

Hi Doc:

I have a pair of Thiel .5s. I am looking at amplifiers and am considering the Aragon 8008, Bryston 3b or 4b ST, or the McCormick DNA .5 or 1.0. I understand all of these amplifiers supposedly pair well with Thiel speakers, but is there any guidance that you can give me as to whether any one of these amps is more favorable with the .5. Finally, if I were to upgrade to the 1.5s in the future, would that change your recommendation at all. I would greatly appreciate your advice as I have been struggling with making this decision for some time. Thank you. (The other equipment in the system are Audible Illusions Mod 3A, CAL IKON MKII Boss, Regal Planar 3 with Benz Micro Glider, cable to be changed)

– Matthew Brandalise

Matthew, short of comparing these amps in your system, the results of which would probably dictate my decision, I would go with the Bryston. Bryston carries a 20 year warranty. Between the 3B and the 4B, I would go with the 4B. In my experience, more power usually sounds better. See the review of the Bryston 60 watt amplifier, in this issue, for more on the subject of amplifier power. I’ve listened extensively to both Bryston amps and the McCormack DNA-1, and can say first hand that they are excellent. The Aragon amplifier, as you know, has a good reputation. Good luck. Sincerely, – dh

Hi Doc,

I’ve got two Adcom GFA-555’s amps and a single GFP-555 preamp. I’m only using one amp to drive my Vandersteen 2C’s because I can’t figure the right way to use both amps. Every time I tried to bi-wire/bi-amp, I blew a DC rail fuse in the amps as soon as I turned them on (no music). I followed the directions in the manual; set the amps in bridged/mono; and used one amp for each speaker. I’m using a set of custom made Monster Cables: a single cable to each speaker but split at the speaker end to drive the separate tweeter/midrange and bass inputs. Any suggestions? Assuming I can get this to work, which is better:

1) Use one amp per speaker (only what I’ve tried because of my cheap cables) 2) Use one amp to drive both speaker’s tweeter/midrange and the other amp to drive both speaker’s bass?

– Michael A. Clark

Michael, it sounds to me like your problem might be in how you’re connecting the speaker cable to the amplifier. Call your dealer or Adcom to be sure about your wiring. As for which way to use the amps, one per speaker or one for the highs and one for the lows, that’s a case where you should definitely try it both ways.

Adcom’s number is (732) 683-2356. – dh

Dear Doc,

I’m in the process of upgrading (replacing) my home theater system and there are a few things that I would like to ask. I want to make clear that the new System will be used mainly for music listening, although I consider home cinema to be equally important. Let me present the components I’ve selected so far (nothing final):

Pre/Pro : Acurus ACT-3, Sunfire Theater Grand (Theta CasaNova is VERY expensive). Power Amp: Sunfire Cinema Grand (5x200WRMS/8Ohm, 5x400WRMS/4Ohm) Speakers (L/R): Martin Logan SL-3 CD Player: Jadis Orchestra DVD Player: Pioneer 717 Subwoofer: Not yet decided.

I also own a pair of Energy C-4 which will probably be used for Surrounds and a center Energy EC-200. My living room is about 65 square meters and about 3m high. Here are my questions:

1) As you probably know, the SL-3’s operate at 4Ohms (and less), while Energies at 8Ohms. What will happen when connected to the Sunfire? (or any other 5 channel amp). Are the SL-3’s going to sound at double the level of the Energies? In general: Is there a way to calculate the sound volume level of the speakers depending on their resistance and the amplifier’s output?

2) If so, in most cases a Pre/Pro provides the ability to adjust the volume level of the speakers. This ability is usually measured in db. How can I calculate whether this ability is sufficient in this case?

3) Will there be any problem with the amplifier itself, driving different resistance loads?

4) Do you think that a stereo power amplifier for the Logan’s plus a 3-channel ROTEL RB 993 would be a better idea?

5) I would highly appreciate any suggestions on different components and especially a future-proof (?) Pre/Pro.

Thank you for your time.

– Yiorgos Hadjis

Yiorgos, a system whose amplifier doubles it’s power output when a given speaker’s impedence drops 50% (e.g. 8ohms to 4ohms) plays at exactly the same volume. And no, you cannot calculate a speaker’s SPL level based on it’s resistance and an amplifier’s output. However, you can check the sensitivity levels of two speakers–rated in db–and if they’re measured the same, (e.g. sound pressure level in dbs with 1 watt of power measured at 1 meter), you can know how loud they’ll play relative to one another, at 1 meter. (By the way, a 3 db difference in output level is considered barely perceptible, and requires twice the power.) Unfortunately, this won’t necessary tell you anything about the average sound pressure level throughout the room. The C4’s, for instance, have a broader radiation pattern than the SL3’s, whose volume level drops off drastically when you move off axis.

Really, you don’t need to concern yourself with all of these particulars. What you have to know is whether the amplifier can adequately drive the SL3’s. Get that amp hooked up to those speakers and give her a spin. While I think it should be fine, you may be more picky than most.

A stereo power amplifier for the Logans is a good idea if you agree that you’d like to put more of your resources into the left and right speaker amplifiers than into the other three channels. Then, you could get a better amplifier than the Sunfire so that your music would sound better. Your other channels might not sound as good, but this would only apply while in surround mode. As you’ll probably be in surround mode mostly for movie watching, you may not miss the difference. If you’re into the movie, you’re mind is not focusing on the audio system. Instead, you’re watching a screen.

The only preamp/processors I know of which seem like they may be truly future proof are the top of the line Meridian, the 861, and the top of the line Krell. The Meridian will set you back about $15,000, and the Krell Audio Video Standard about $13,000. – dh

Hi Doc,

I’m looking for stereo equipment to replace my old pathetic system, the components of which I’m too ashamed to mention. I have a champaign taste with a beer budget (albeit very good beer). With so many used items for sale on the various online classified sections and on ebay I can’t help but to consider this option. Is there any published study rating reliability or frequency of repair for specific brands of high end equipment? Any specific questions one should ask of online sellers of speakers aside from obvious damage and age? I have gotten the idea that I should stay away from equipment manufactured in China. Also on a side note, I have been considering B&K M-200 monoblocks, B&W 802’s (any thoughts on this combo?) and a high end CD player (AH! Tjoeb?). I don’t think I need a preamp as all I listen to are CDs. Is it possible to just hook up a CD player directly to the amps and cut out the middle man?

Thanks a lot,

-George

George, I know of no ratings service for high-end equipment. You can, however, feel more secure with higher end brands that have been around a while and you can feel more secure with solid state rather than tubes. I don’t know of China’s track record with gear, but it seems to me that if you’re buying high-end that concern is not likely to come up. Evaluate the seller as best you can, but you know as well as I that there are dishonest people out there. That’s one of the comforts of buying from a dealer. Some trading sites encourage seller evaluations, and that will inspire a seller to be honest. You may want to stick only to those sites that post their seller evaluations. The specific B&K/B&W combination you mention seems plausible to me. As for cd players, I love the Marantz line and Meridian lines for performance and reliability. CALs cdp’s have always sounded top notch, but the changer models don’t instill confidence in their build quality.

The Adcom changer, too, is among the best I’ve heard at it’s price but has questionable build quality. Check out the cdp reviews on PHF for some more detailed info. Use a pre-amplifier. That is, go ahead and try running a cdp directly into an amplifier. You can use Creek’s passive volume control to control gain. What you’ll hear, if your experience is the same as mine–and I’ve done this with several cd players and amplifiers–is a thin, clean sound. Music is robbed of its body. Put the pre-amp in there and you’ll hear the upper bass restored and a more natural, less reproduced sound, overall. Sincerely, – dh

Dear Sirs:

I´m looking for a pair of speakers to match my system (Meridian 508.24 CD Player, Unison Research Simply 845 (SET integrated amplifier 24W/ch), Harmonic Technology ProSilway MKII Pro9Plus cables). I have the chance to buy the ProAc response 2.5 and Sonus Faber Guarneri Homage at the same price. My listening room is 3.5m W x 6m D x 3m H and I listen to all kinds of music, specially "black" music (Jazz, Funk, etc). What Speaker do you suggest me? I´m looking for a very 3D sound with great transparency (not harsh) and naturalness. Many thanks in advance and best regards!!

– Jose Ramon Garcia. (SPAIN)

Jose, my experience with the Sonus line, with the possible exception of the Amati, suggests that you may need more amplifier power than you have. The Guarneri, for instance, is rated at 88db SPL with 1 watt at 1 meter. Not a high sensitivity speaker. I’m not nearly as familiar with the ProAcs. Be sure to try your amp with whichever speaker you buy, before you are committed to buying them. Or, try an amplifier with a similar power rating. – dh

Audio Doctor:

I have a slightly different definition of "moderate means" than most who have posted here-I am a young audio enthusiast leaving for college to live in a dorm. Frequently, my audio equipment purchases are limited to refurbished or second hand equipment, not exactly what you would refer to as the "high-end." Still, I have a job and have the means to improve my system at least some before I leave for school.

I am enchanted by the novelty of digital surround effects and probably am so uncultured that I could not tell the difference between a "good" CD player and the old Fisher 60 Disc changer that I have installed right now. Accepting that my system would be used for casual listening only up to the levels that dorm life would allow, and that the most demanding production levels would be for showing movies in digital surround, what would you could you recommend as the most cost-effective improvement? Here is the current situation:

Harman/Kardon AVR55 (bought refurbished for $300!) Fisher Studio 60 CD Changer ($60) KLH 900B Speakers (2) for the front ($100) JBL 500 Speakers (2) for the back ($50) JBL Media 35 Watt Powered Sub ($100) No center channel speaker (ack!)

Here is where my system gets interesting: I use my computer for most of my music listening. I have encoded all of my 120 or so CDs into digital MP3 audio and use my on-board sound card for processing. Also, I use a DVD drive and a decoder card with Dolby digital coax output for movie watching. We won’t even discuss the sad state of my VCR. All of this runs out to my receiver for what I feel is a pretty good overall sound. Definitely better than your average mini-system. My interconnects are in sad shape. I have the very cheapest of monster cable between my CD player and receiver, and thin, unhealthy looking Radio Shack stereo-to-RCA cable running from my stereo out jack on my computer into the receiver. The speaker cabling I have is all 12 gauge, but of no-name brand. Assuming that I would have at most $450 to spend to improve the system, what modifications to components/interconnects could I make and what (non-destructive) changes could I make to my dorm room (12X12, lots of hard, flat surfaces) to improve the overall performance of the system?

Yours,

– Bryan Klingner (Ailing in Austin)

Bryan, if you haven’t done so already, properly position your speakers. If they are not properly positioned, this will do more than $450 can. Here are a few guidelines:

Place the speakers at least two feet from the front wall (i.e. the wall you face while listening) and side walls. If the exact spot you settle on sounds too boomy in the bass or too absent in the bass, move your speakers further way from the wall in two inch increments. Stop when you hear the most natural balance. For each speaker, keep the difference between the front wall and side wall different.

Position the speakers equidistant from your head when in your chosen listening position. An equilateral triangle formed by your head and the speakers often works well. Getting your head further away from the speakers than they are from each other should be o.k., but not closer. Start with the speakers pointing straight ahead and experiment with them pointing in towards your head at varying degrees. You’ll notice that the focus of sounds changes as you do this. (Use a vocal for this exercise, as it’s easy to hear it vary between headsize and larger than headsize.) Typically, as a speaker is toed in towards the listener focus improves, but stage width and depth suffer. As for equipment changes, I would listen to your cd’s through a second hand CAL or Rega CD player. To be safe, stay away from any models more than 3 years old. With $450, you should be able to get one that sold for about $900 new. You must use a decent interconnect (e.g. Monster M550I, $50/meter) or else you probably will not hear any improvement. If video is more important to you than audio, get yourself a center channel speaker, for sure. – dh

Dear Doctor,

I own a YAMAHA DSP A-1000 reciever. I am curious if this can keep up with all the new system out there or if it’s time to buy a new one. Can you let me know what kind upgrade I can do to make the sound better. I have around $1000 budget…

I am currently using KG series Klipsch speakers for the front. Using MIT Cables and Monster Cable inter connects.

– Vilano, Regino

Regino, if your priority is video rather than audio, you’ll want to get an AC-3 surround processor/pre-amp and connect it’s outputs to the inputs of your Yamaha. (Make sure your Yamaha has this capability.) Dolby Digital surround sound, available from DVD and decoded by an AC-3 processor, is a significant improvement over Dolby Pro Logic or Dolby Surround Sound. If your priority is audio, it might be sensible to change your speakers. At that price range, Energy 2+2s are favorites of mine. Of course, I don’t know how your speakers compare. If you can’t get a speaker that’s any better for your $1,000, than certainly a 2 channel amplifier, for your left and right speakers, at that price would be a sensible thing to do. You should hear improvements in all aspects of reproduction. Also, keep in mind that the left and right speakers would now sound far better while listening to movies in surround sound, as well. Happy Listening, – dh

Dear Doctor,

Would it be a good match to combine a Krell KAV 250 CD with a Krell 300i and a pair of Sonus Faber Concertos ?

– Bruno Thierry

Bruno, while I haven’t tried that particular combo, I would be shocked if it didn’t sound terrific. I base this conclusion on my familiarity with the Krell cd player, the Krell KAV500i integrated amp (I own it), and the speakers. Those speakers are among the best in their price class, and that includes floorstanders. With quality cabling, that system should be killer. -dh

Dear Doctor,

I am the proud owner of the Genesis apm-1. It is a fascinating speaker. Yesterday, I noticed a periodic ‘clicking’ noise originating from one of the subwoofers. This sound comes on once a second or so when the power switch is on. It ‘clicks’ whether I am sending a signal or not. There is no bass music coming from this speaker now. Do you have any idea why this might be happening? Do you think a connection/wire came loose? Because each weighs more than 200 pounds, I don’t want to transport them if I can avoid it.

– Duke Dykstra

Dear Duke, That’s certainly a possibility. I would give the guys at Genesis a call. Perhaps they can troubleshoot it over the phone. Many times, the problem can be fixed by the user after receiving the correct replacement parts via mail. Of course, if you purchased it from a local retailer, I would give them a buzz first. If they have any level of customer service, they will send someone over to remedy your problem. Good luck and thanks for reading planethifi. -gk

Another question,

I have a martin logan, logos, clsIIz, f18 series velodyne subwoofer, and the genesis apm-1. What four ohm output multi channel amplifier do you recommend? Or what power range should I look for?

– Duke Dykstra

Krell and Martin Logan are known synergistic matches. The KAV-500 would be a good place to start. I’ve also listened to the Proceed multi-channel amp and was impressed with its power and clean output. It may seem too aggressive with speakers already balanced forward in the mid and treble or with overly lean loudspeakers. The Bryston 9B is another great choice. Phenomenal bass and a clean but unfatiguing overall sound with a 20 year warranty to boot. I am also looking closely at the PS Audio amp that should hopefully arrive after years end. Another option would be to purchase a stereo amp and a separate 3-channel amp. – gk

Doctor,

I am very interested in learning more about home theater equipment. I read a lot of magazines about various home theater equipment. I am writing to you because I don’t always understand what I am reading. I am looking for something that I can read or someone to talk to so that I can gain more overall knowledge about home theater systems. I guess that I am interested in every aspect from speaker and system layout to how speakers and audio equipment is internally designed. Can you help me out? Thanks,

– Brian Manning

Dear Brian, The best resource for learning about home theatre is Robert Harley’s comprehensive book titled, "Home Theatre For Everyone". You can check it out on Amazon’s site at http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0964084929/planeththemagazi

He also writes "The Complete Guide to High End Audio". This is another great resource if you are interested in the ins and outs of purchasing gear and setting it up for best sound. A true reference for anybody with a passion for music reproduction. Read about it at http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0964084945/planeththemagazi Good luck and thanks for reading planethifi. – gk

Brian Replies,

Thanks for your reply. I checked out those books on amazon.com. They sound pretty informative but i have a few questions about them. Like I said, I am looking to gain an overall larger understand about EVERY aspect of home theater. I want to learn more about why a 4 ohms speaker can handle more of a load than and 8 ohms speaker. What is the difference between THX lucasfilms sound reproduction and Dolby Digital. What is the optimal placement for the size speaker that i own for the sized room that i have. Why does a Harman Kardon pro-logic receiver pushing 75 watts in two channel stereo sound equally as loud as a pioneer receiver pushing 110 watts in two channels. These are just some of the questions that i am interested in finding more about. Do these books cover any of this material? Are these books easy to read? Do they have pitures or is it straight reading.? Thank you for your time and response.

– Brian Manning

Brian, Some of your questions will be covered by these resources but for more technical questions, you may be better off with a textbook. These books are geared towards the average audiophile. I would recommend going to your local bookstore (I am certain that Barnes & Noble carries these books)and paging through them. Or buy it online and return it if you’re not happy. I’ve found them to be invaluable but in no way should they comprise your entire reference library. – gk

Dear Doctor,

I was considering either the Jolida SJ-202a integrated amp, or the Decware Zen. I want to power some norh 7.0’s with a 85 db efficiency, which is apparently much higher than most speakers even claiming 95 db efficiencies. What do you recommend? The Jolida is used and 6 months old with replaced Sovtek and NOS tubes for $350. Thanks

I am a big fan of the Decware SE84B, but it must be paired with efficient loudspeakers. If you feel that your speakers are up to it, I would take Decware up on their 30 day money back guarantee and give it a shot. I’ve listened to the stock SJ202a and was only moderately impressed. One thing to consider though, the Jolida is a true integrated amp with multiple inputs. The Decware has just one set of line-level inputs. If you have more than one source, you will have to manually switch cables or get yourself a good pre-amp to match up with the Decware. – gk

Hello audio doctor.

i must admit i’m quite new at the home theatre scene and not quite a veteran audiophile yet 🙂 anyways, i have been reading reviews from magazines and the internet and am planning on buying the following system:

– Denon AVR 5700 receiver – Sony DVR 7700 dvd player – Jamo System TWO (not sure…)

i have no idea what component/speaker cables i should get yet. as you might have guessed, the system is geared more towards movies rather than music. feel free to change my list; it isn’t set in stone. i’d appreciate any comments and critism you can offer.

-Charlie S

Dear Charlie, You’ve made some solid choices. The Denon is a good sounding unit and the DVP-S7700 is the best in its class. I’m unfamiliar with the Jamo loudspeaker system so I cannot provide any advice on you choice of loudspeakers.

Cables can make a significant improvement in your overall sound quality. Cables should always be auditioned at home, preferably purchased with a money back guarantee. If you are having difficulty locating specific cable brands in your area, try the Cable Company. They rent cables via mail so that audiophiles can try out different brands in the comfort of their own home (no pushy salesperson looking over your shoulder). Check them out at http://www.fatwyre.com/

Unfortunately, home theatre systems require lot of cable because of the number of loudspeakers and electronic components. Do not skimp on the speaker cable going to your front left and right speaker and your center speaker. These are crucial paths. I would also keep some money behind for high quality interconnects from your DVD player to the receiver.

TARA Labs makes some great cables that are reasonable. Go with the RSC series if your budget permits. Speaker cable is about $10 per foot and interconnects start at $120 per meter for the RSC series. For less money, you can’t go wrong with Monster Cable’s M550i interconnect at $50 per meter. But for speaker cable, I would try Kimber Kable’s entry level stuff. I believe that it is approx. $4-5 per foot. Give The Cable Company a call. They also keep an extensive database of customers and what cables have worked well in their systems. Somebody may have already done the work for you. – gk

Dear Doctor,

I have an Onkyo 6-disc changer. It’s perhaps four years old but used only several times per month in that time. It has been treated with care. Today I tried to use the random play feature and after two songs it quit. After playing around with it and getting similar results I tried playing single discs. That seemed to work OK but several times it did skip past the disc I was trying to play (one that had played fine only minutes before) and all subsequent ones, then shut down. At last I hit stop and could hear the changer start searching again. Occasionally I would hear a disturbing grinding sound during this process. I tried cleaning the discs with an album discwasher brush and had no apparent benefit and no significant dirt was removed. Tell me it’s just time for a good cleaning of the CD player.

– Ken Damon

Unfortunately, it sounds like your CD player may require something a little more serious than just a cleaning. The servo could be failing and therefore the mechanism could be mistracking. This is not uncommon for a cd player. In other words, take it to an authorized Onkyo repair center and get it checked out. Some places will give you a free estimate but most will require you to authorize a repair if it is under a specific amount, usually $150-$175. If you didn’t pay much more than this when you originally purchased your player, then I would suggest looking for a new unit. The upside would be that the sound quality has improved significantly over the past four years. Another option would be to purchase a DVD player, allowing you to play movies and cd’s from the same unit. Sony even makes a 5 CD/DVD carousel changer! – gk

Dear Doctor,

I’m a budding audiophile writing fromVienna, Austria the music city of yesteryear. Room: My listening room is in a lovely building dated 1854, 25sq meters area with 3 meter high ceiling. One wall is slightly slanted so the room is a good shape as well. Old and lovely as they are, the floors vibrate, so I cannot play LOUD. To the walls I am adding stuff to absorb sound (just moved in). System:

Rotel Preamp 995 – new, regular feeding times Rotel Amp 981 – new, eats most of its dinner Pioneer CDR555 – 1 yr old, ravi shankar fan. Can take notes as well. Speakers: Infinity 61i – 3 yrs old, suspected party animals. Cables all Flatline – new, but fit in nicely with everybody.

Which bit should I upgrade next? My ears say the speakers are sore, and seem to vibrate on their own at times not able to handle the mid range and voice tones well, especially just after 9 o’clock on the preamp volume setting (I consistently listen at the 8 to 9 o’clock range, nothing bombastic). Is my assumption right? I do need your medical advice! Please send prescription!

-Raga & Folk Patient Downtown Vienna

Dear Raga & Folk Patient, I would agree with your self-assessment. Upgrading your loudspeakers will make the greatest improvement in your system’s sound quality. Depending upon your budget and tastes, you have many options because, thankfully, there are many fabulous speakers available on the market. Here are some recommendations. But be advised that this is in no way a comprehensive list and only passionate auditioning will provide you with the best choice for your situation.

From your home town, Vienna Acoustics Bach – US$1500 per pair. Beautifully made floor standers with excellent soundstaging.

Sonus Faber Concerto – US$1850 per pair, stands $450 per pair. Very smooth sounding bookshelf speaker with imaging to-die-for when properly set-up in a larger room.

Monitor Audio Silver 3 and Silver 5 – US$600 and US$1000 per pair. Bookshelf and floor standing speakers with very good resolution and detail. Great value, especially the Silver 3(stands should be considered mandatory with any bookshelf speaker).

Martin Logan Aerius i – US$2300 per pair. Electrostatics with a truly amazing midrange. Resolution and smoothness with good bottom end. Placement requires them to be pulled out well away from the rear wall. – gk

The series continues with the September–October 2000 questions and the January–February 2001 column.